Bob’s Sabbatical
November 14, 2009 – Via Dolorosa
We woke
up at 5:00am in order to leave the college at 6:00am for Stations of the Cross
in the Old City. We began in the
courtyard, then walked, in silence, carrying a wooden cross about the same size
we use at St. Paul’s during Holy Week, and an icon of Jesus on the Cross.
When we arrived at the first station, on the Via Dolorosa, we began (as we did at each subsequent station) with a chanted versicle and response, then a single verse “hymn,” followed by a reading, another versicle and response, another reading and closing collect. People took turns carrying the icon and the cross from station to station. Susan and I each carried the cross.
That early in the morning, Jerusalem was fairly quiet, but the city was stirring to life. As we moved, at times we stood near piles of garbage bags waiting for collection. Other times we had to part, like the Red Sea, to let carts full of fresh bread through. School children ran around and between us (Palestinian schools close Friday and Sunday, Jewish schools close Saturday and Sunday). Many people paid no attention to us at all. This was probably true the day Jesus carried his cross to Calvary, “just another criminal on his way to his punishment.”
The last
station was in the courtyard of the Church of the Resurrection (aka “Church of
the Holy Seplechure”), where we were told, by the janitor we think, that we
could not sing or pray there! We ended
up going inside and whispered our final prayers and readings. On our way out, the courtyard was full of
groups having pictures taken, and guides yelling information about the Church –
but no singing or praying allowed – go figure!
We went
for breakfast nearby, then back to the Church of the Resurrection, climbing
down two stories of steps into the St. Helena Chapel, part of which was a
quarry, once upon a time. We made our
way up one level to Adam’s Chapel, where we could see part of the base of the
Rock of Calvary. Next we climbed two
levels up to the Shrine where we could crawl under a low Alter, reach into a
hole in the floor and touch the rock. This
was very moving, having done the Way of the Cross earlier. We went back downstairs to the main level,
where we saw a typical 1st Century crypt.
We were given money for lunch and the rest of the day to ourselves. Susan and I went back to the Western Wall before heading back to the college.
Peace,
Bob
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